Black and white cookie ice cream sandwiches at Sherry’s Soda Shoppe, opening March 10 on Welton Street. (From the Hip Photo, Provided by Sherry’s)
When the owner of the cult-followed Rosenberg’s Bagels debuts an ice cream shop and soda fountain in the middle of winter, you should probably bundle up and make that trip.
Luckily, in time for the opening of Sherry’s Soda Shoppe on Tuesday, Denver should see a string of warm enough days for lace cookie-flavored scoops, vanilla egg creams and cherry phosphates.
Named after owner Joshua Pollack’s late grandmother, Sherry’s is an old-fashioned soda fountain with a 21st Century bent: no artificial flavoring, all natural ingredients and plenty of sugar, but only the real kind.
MORE: A soda fountain will replace Five Points’ Rolling Pin Bakeshop
The store is right next door to Rosenberg’s original bagel shop and deli in Five Points. Like that restaurant, as well as Pollack’s others — Famous Original J’s New York-style pizza and Lou’s Italian Specialties sub shop — it balances East Coast nostalgia and local, high-quality ingredients.
Pollack and his team, including former Sweet Cow manager Milena Nichols, are making a near endless stream of rotating ice cream flavors, shake combinations, floats, sandwiches (flanked with black and white cookies), sundaes and the old-school stuff.
They’ll offer house soda syrups like mint, lavender and lemon-lime. You’ll be able to combine those and add in effervescents or acid phosphates for a fizzy punch.
Of the ice cream flavors, early winners are the chocolate (try it with house caramel), vanilla (try it malted), cookies and cream, lace cookie and peanut butter cup. Pistachio was Pollack’s grandmother’s favorite flavor, and Sherry’s Cherry is a play on Cherry Garcia with real cherries ground up.
To start, the retail store will sell jarred candies and bottles of phosphates. Eventually, Sherry’s menu should grow to include more sweets as well as alcoholic drinks.
Back when Pollack was growing up in New Jersey, he remembers shops like Sherry’s in every neighborhood.
“I saw the food I love kind of die,” he said. “Our hope when we build all our (restaurants) is that they’re kind of here forever.”
2716 Welton St., starting March 10, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Sundays, facebook.com/sherryssodashoppe
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