The New York invasion of Denver started slowly. First came the Jewish bagels, then the foldable pizza slices, followed by face-sized hoagies. Now the latest of these nostalgic interlopers will be an East Coast ice cream bar and soda fountain serving real phosphates.
Restaurateur Josh Pollack — owner of Rosenberg’s Bagels, Famous Original J’s Pizza and Lou’s Italian Specialties in Denver — hopes to open his real soda and ice cream shop in Five Points around the end of February.
The name is still being tweaked, but the last of Pollack’s businesses is named for Lou, his late grandfather, so this new one will be named for Sherry, Pollack’s late grandmother. Her namesake store will take over the Welton Street space previously occupied by The Rolling Pin Bakeshop, which closed in November.
“(The soda fountain) really ties into our brand of ‘New York-ing’ Denver, playing on the nostalgia and traditions of New York food,” Pollack told The Denver Post.
He says old-fashioned ice cream parlors were a big part of his grandparents’ childhoods back east. Now, the concept is having a resurgence across the country, including in Denver, where Sweet Cooie’s Confectionery serves gumdrop vibes alongside scoops of Little Man Ice Cream.
At Sherry’s, syrups, sodas and ice cream will all be made in-house. Cookies from the bakeries at Rosenberg’s and Lou’s will play a role; think black and white ice cream sandwiches. Even CBD will come into the mix with infused sodas that are made to order, because “God bless Colorado,” Pollack says, laughing.
Eventually, the parlor will operate as an evening and late-night bar, too, depending on what the neighborhood wants.
Boozy shakes by day could transition to cocktails at night. Milena Nichols, a former Sweet Cow Ice Cream manager, will help Pollack’s Bridge and Tunnel Restaurant Group with ice cream development.
Prior to its closing, Pollack was an investor in The Rolling Pin Bakeshop. Its baker, Jay Thomas, had worked as Rosenberg’s pastry chef previously, and while Pollack said he was surprised and saddened by the decision to close, he understands that margins in a bakery are especially tight.
“It’s just a hard business,” he said, adding, “When life gives you lemons, you make ice cream!”
2716 Welton St., hours from midday to 10 p.m. and later, coming late February or early March
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